13 November 1998
It sort of feels as if we never left the ship, especially because we are on the same vessel and the routine is just the same - just different faces.

Well let me give you the news from the time that we left Cape Town. The old folks took us to the airport on Tuesday 10 November. We booked our tickets and boarded the plane with no hassles. The SAA plane must be the oldest in the fleet (only 44 rows of three/four/three seats). We were in row 43 (only two seats) a window and aisle - rather nice to be on our own. The plane was not full and the four seat row next to us had just one passenger. Boy was he going to make sure that no one took one of his seats. For some reason he was given supper before all of us and was prone before the rest of us could say boo to a goose. Of course being the oldest plane in the fleet all the wiring over heated and the pilot turned off all the lights to isolate the problem. Rather scary and NO movies or music for entertainment. We took off at 20h40 and a very bumpy 11 hours later landed at Heathrow at 06h00. We sat around until 08h00 to catch the BA flight to Rome - an uneventful flight. We landed in Rome at 11h25 and were met by the ship agent. We were driven the 70km to Civitavecchia without even a glimpse of Rome. The agent dumped us at a grotty hotel and said the ship was due tomorrow (Thursday). As this company we work for does not look after its employees properly the hotel served us no food. We dumped our bags and went in search of some lunch. We both had tasty seafood. We then went back to the room for a long awaited sleep. After a short nap we again hit the town and looked around the shops - not really that much to see. Just the normal clothes and food type places. We ate supper at a Chinese restaurant (strange to hear Chinese people speaking Italian) went back to the hotel and collapsed for the night in what I am sure was a flea infested bed.

We woke up on Thursday to a nice warm and sunny day (climate much the same as SA autumn). We had breakfast and went walkabout again. At about 11 am we phoned the agent to find out what was going on as we had heard nothing and could see the ship going in. Gav was told that we were only going to join on Friday at midday, very strange. So we had lunch and caught the train to Rome. The ride took just over an hour. The first thing we went to was the Coliseum. We couldn't go in as it was closed, but the ancient building is very impressive from the outside. Of course there are the usual vendors selling curios and a couple of men dressed like old time Romans in their Caesar garb. We walked all the way around the Coliseum. A filthy beggar lady harassed us and her kid gabbed Gav and nearly pulled him over. I thought for sure in the scuttle that we had been mugged (luckily nothing had been taken). We then took the metro to the Vatican. While getting on the train a man started shouting at us and pointing at Gavs' pocket and the same beggar woman. Gav had a calculator (to work out the converted price of things) in his pocket that could be mistaken as a wallet. The woman must have followed us in the hopes of robbing us and this man had given us a very loud and stern warning.

The Vatican was absolutely amazing. I really wish Dad could have seen the magnificence of it all. I think I could have spent five days just looking at the paintings. No book can even begin to describe the size of the buildings and the awe you feel looking at those very old paintings. We sent you a post card from the Vatican post office, hope you get it.

As it was by then getting late and cold we decided to get something to eat (at McDonald's) and look at the shops. We then caught the train back to Civitavecchia. As soon as we walked into the hotel we were told to go to the ship by taxi. Of course Gav was peeved because the agent had said joining was the next day and the old chief had been waiting for us since 13h00. We got to the ship and Gav and the old chief began hand over, i.e. giving Gav all details of how the ship is going, etc. That all lasted until 2 am. We got up this morning to the old routine. The old chief is now gone and we are here for the next four to five months. No comment about the captain yet as I don't know him. Unfortunately no other wife or the possibility of one.

It is now nearly seven in the evening. While Gav has been doing his thing and I have been alone in the cabin (after the unpacking) I have been wondering if I can survive the four months of absolute boredom and loneliness - with Gav as my only companion. Oh how I wish there was another wife here. I had hoped that if there was we could catch a train to Pisa and see the tower. It's a bit far to go on my own (about 300 km). Anyway we are here for about the next eight days and then it's on to Casablanca.

14 November 1998
It is now 21h00 on this my first Saturday on the ship. We went ashore this afternoon. Just walked around. Things are really expensive here. You'll never guess what we are considering buying - a really nice high chair (never seen such a nice one before and not expensive), it is made of wood but folds into a small box. We have also seen a really beautiful leather photo album (for our wedding pictures) but it is very expensive. We are planning to go to Rome again tomorrow and are hoping to find a similar album at a better price. We saw them when we were there the other day and they were cheaper. The cargo is only worked from seven in the morning to seven at night (hence our eight day stay), it also is not off loaded on a Sunday (so Rome here we come). Italy is not such a bad place. The only thing a little different from home is that everything is closed from about midday till sixish in the evening. Everything then opens and is that way till late. All the locals are in the streets at night. I assume because they all live in flats they socialise in the streets at night.

It has been a really uneventful day here - overcast with rain. Luckily the cargo does not have to stay dry. We have that stuff called petcoke again. This time from Lake Charles in the USA. So of course everything is covered in black oily dust.

15 November 1998
Another day has gone by. We went to Rome this afternoon. We took the speed train and were sitting in first class until the ticket man told us off. The speed train does not stop at all the stations on the way to Rome which makes the ride a lot shorter (about seven stops). We saw the Pantheon and had a sketch of the two of us drawn (quite nice). We walked our feet till they ached, but really enjoyed ourselves. We tried to get the cheaper photo album but the shop was closed. Apparently the Pope gave a speech at the Vatican, we weren't there at that time - ahhh. We decided to come home at 18h00. The man at information at the station told us to catch the train on platform 6. So we went there and saw the train was bound for some unknown place. After much panic and running we found our train on platform 22. We got to it just on time and jumped on still not sure if it was the right train - lucky for us it was. The train was chokka block full of young militia and there were no seats. We ended up sitting on the steps of the exit door. The problem is when you buy a ticket to your destination you can get on any train that goes there (no designated seat) and so trains can easily become overcrowded like ours was. I think the ship will be here for another week, so will be spending my birthday here. Not really any other news, I am very tired after walking for about five hours.

16 November 1998
I am really very bored at the moment. After I have finished typing I will go and get the laundry out of the tumble dryer. It is nearly lunch time, I am going crazy because there is no marmite on the ship and I can't get any in a shop either. Actually the supplies are pretty poor at the moment - no jam either. I am feeling very tearful at the moment. I feel really lonely and think I am going to have a really rotten birthday - Maybe Gav will surprise me, but I am not holding my breath. I am beginning to dread having Christmas on the ship too. I don't think there will be much of a fun celebration.

17 November 1998
Only one day till I am a quarter of a century old. I had planned on going into town this morning but have been trying to type recipes on the computer. It has taken all morning, by now the shops are probably closing for the siesta. So we will go tonight or I will go tomorrow morning. I am still struggling to settle down on the ship, and really wish we could leave here now. I am feeling as if nothing is happening.

The captain is upset because his wife was going to fly out with us to visit him. But typical of the company they made it as difficult as possible, i.e. not getting good prices for tickets and not helping with visas. They really don't seem to care about the happiness of the crew at all. Anyway the captain is getting off in Mexico so his wife is not coming to visit - ahh.

18 November 1998
"HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME, HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME, HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME." We are going out for supper tonight - can't wait. Gav has been so sweet, he sneaked out and got me a cake. Then at tea time he asked me to get the milk out of the fridge. When I opened the door I saw a box - my cake. So all in all it has been a decent day.

19 November 1998
We had a lovely night out on the town. We went to a Chinese restaurant and both Gav and I had roast duck - yum yum. This morning I went into town on my own. I had decided to buy Christmas decorations - but after uhming and ahhing I decided not to. Some of the decorations are really beautiful, but again rather expensive. We are meant to be leaving sometime tomorrow afternoon. I really hope so as I feel like we have been here for ages.

20 November 1998
We went into town again last night (as we do every night - no cargo worked at night here). Mostly we just walk around, have some coffee in a cafe and play pinball (I really enjoy that silly game). Today I have given the cabin a good scrub. Gav is in the engine room and so I have some time to use the computer.

I have been redoing the video locker again. It was in a huge mess (again) when we joined. So again I am the librarian. I am nearly finished with it now. What to do next? I don't know.

21 November 1998
We left Civitavecchia last night at about 21h00. There were gale force winds blowing in the Mediterranean and so I expected to have a very uncomfortable night. But surprisingly we had a smooth passage. The trip is only eight hours and so we arrive in Gaeta at 05h30 this morning. At the moment we are at anchor and expect to be until Wednesday (today Saturday). The worry is whether we will have enough water until then, so we all have to use as little as possible - this means no washing machine, etc.

Today has been a very quiet day. The weather is grim and freezing, about 8 degrees I think. Gaeta looks like a rather pretty place. Very mountainous with a smallish town on the water. I can see a dusting of snow on the mountain tops around the area. According to the weather forecast the east coast of Italy is full of snow (we are on the west coast).

22 November 1998
Well another cold and miserable day. The wind is blowing gales for the third day running. We have just had a quick fire drill and now all the crew are having a safety meeting. I have been out on the deck beginning my exercise programme - again. I am really tired of sitting inside, so decided today was the day. Even though it is about eight degrees outside I walked for about 15 minutes - decked out in running shoes, tracksuit and huge but very warm jacket. The mountains have more snow on them today - it must have snowed last night and looks as if it might snow again today sometime. Gav is a little worried about the wind dragging the ship and hence the anchor. If this happens it will mean having to start the engines and re-anchoring (what a process).

23 November 1998
Today has been a rather nice day. Still at anchor, but a warm and clear and wind free day. This morning the life boat was tested. A few of the crew got in and the boat was lowered into the water. They nearly got the rudder caught up in the rope again. You would think that they would know to loosen it before starting the engine. Once the rope was loose they went for a ride around the ship. When it came to getting the boat back up the fun and games started. No one in the boat could hook the winches. You can just imagine all the shouting of instructions that went on between the ship and boat, with no one really listening to anyone else. Of course everyone on the boat had his chance to try with the winch. Gav and I nearly died of giggles watching this lot of naanas. It eventually took two hours to get the boat back up - after a visit from the coast guard to see if we were smuggling something. "Lord help us if we really were in a pickle."

This afternoon I went on deck to exercise and I ran for 20 minutes (about 1.6 km) and walked for 10 minutes (about 1.7 km) not too bad for a start I don't think. Then Gav and I played some more table tennis - fun. He beat me, but I'll win yet - I hope.

24 November 1998
We are going along side tomorrow. Today has been another nice day. I have spent most of it fishing - no luck though. We will be getting water here so I can at last do the pile of washing. Just in time too I am running out of clean clothes to wear, not that anyone would notice what I had on from day to day anyway. Most of the snow has melted off the mountain - maybe it will snow again tonight, but I think it is a bit warm for snow.

The second engineer gave me some bait to fish with. I had a fantasy of catching lots of fish and baking it in tin foil with lemon and garlic. It would have been so much nicer than the terrible food we are getting at the moment. Gav was really angry this morning because he went into the crew's mess to find the cook, galley boy and steward on their bums. Guess what we had for lunch - ugly egg sandwiches. The galley crew are paid for 12 hours of work a day, if they do six it is a miracle.

25 November 1998
We came alongside at about 11h00 this morning. It is another cold and wet day. Maybe that is winter here. It is now 16h45 and nearly dark. We are probably going to be here until at least Monday (today Wednesday). The best news of all is the captain is getting off in the next port and the new captain is bringing his wife - yay hooray wipee. I cannot tell you how much I am looking forward to having another female on the ship who is bored out of her mind and has nothing to do, we can winge together about our "terrible" lives at sea - hee haa. It also looks as if we are not going to Casablanca or Mexico. I don't know where we are going but the captain says it sounds like possibly Egypt. Gav says he thinks we will then take the cargo to the east. He thinks the charterers are trying to get the ship there because we are meant to dry dock in the Philippines early next year.

26 November 1998
Another day nearly over. I haven't really done anything today - but what's new. Gavin has given the cook a bit of a talking to about the disgusting food he is cooking at the moment. So lets see if anything will change. The Filipinos' are also sick of fried everything and are beginning to complain. It's not really Gav's job but like all the other captains this one is not interested - especially because he is going home in less than a week.

27 November 1998
We are leaving Gaeta tomorrow. Not really that much news since yesterday. It has been confirmed that we are going to Casablanca and then to Mexico. No one seems to know if the captain is getting off or not. His wife told him on the phone that the office phoned her and said he will be here till January and that the captain that should have been coming has joined another ship. So I am not sure whether there will be a wife coming or not.

28 November 1998 Well we finally left at midday on Saturday. I went to town in the morning (on my own - brave hey!) to use up the last of our Lira. I bought some popcorn and chips. I also bought Gavin a Christmas present. I can't tell you what it is in case he reads the letter. At the moment he doesn't even know that I have bought one. I managed to get into the cabin and hide it before he could see I had something. But he is bound to find a wrapped parcel before the actual day. It is really hard to hide anything in this tiny space we have.

29 November 1998
Last night was terrible. The ship rolled all over the show and no one got any sleep. We eventually slept sideways on the bed so that we were rolling head to toe rather than from tummy to back. At least that way we got a little sleep. Today has also been fairly rough but during the day it seems more bearable. It has also rained on and off all day - helps to clean the decks at least. We are expected to arrive in Casablanca on Tuesday (today Sunday). The captain still does not know if he is getting off or not.

30 November 1998
Today I have seen something that few people will ever see. The captain called us to the bridge to see a mini tornado. We saw what looked like a tunnel of water begin sucked into the sky. When that one collapsed we watched another one forming. It looks as if a cloud is coming down in a tube shape and sucks the sea up into the clouds. Eventually the whole tunnel collapses and the water falls back into the sea. We took photos and I really hope that they are half decent. While we were watching this Gav picked up the binoculars to get a better look and I caught him looking through the wrong side. He maintains that he did it on purpose, but the look on his face at the time of being caught really makes me think he is covering up - I am sure that everyone who was there thinks I am crazy because I couldn't stop laughing at his mutterings, "I thought everything looked a bit funny."

1 December 1998
Can you believe that it is December already. We are arriving in Casablanca later this evening and are going to anchor. I was really hoping to go straight in. We are only there for 18 hours and I was hoping for us to arrive and do most of the loading after normal working hours so that I could avoid the slimy Chandler who comes on board. He is a typical pig thinking that all women desire his filthy scaly self - ugh.

I ran today again - just over 3 kilometers (not bad hey!). Gav says he is going to start after Casablanca. All I am hoping for is skinny legs - dream on. We have been rolling quiet a bit again today and apparently will all night. I have shaved my legs in preparation. It is really strange that the rubbing of the sheet on my unshaved legs really hurts.

2 December 1998
And so we rolled last night - all night. Today has not been too bad. I have tried fishing again, but so far no luck. This morning I was walking on the deck by the bridge when I heard the sound of a whistle being blown. At first I thought that it was coming from the engine room (I thought that maybe that was how they got each others attention in all the noise). But on further investigation I saw a small fishing boat on the side of us. I told them to wait and then told the third mate that they were there. Eventually after much haggling and throwing of hands and shouting we managed to buy a good deal of fish and prawns for three cartons of cigarettes. The two guys on the boat will probably sell the cigarettes. The amusing part was when the agreement had finally been made the flip flops (Filipinos) hoisted up the fish and told the boat to go (without the cigarettes). The Moroccans weren't impressed and even more angry when only two cartons were eventually hoisted down. The Leckie (electrician) thought it was the funniest thing he had ever done and was just about rolling on the deck in mirth.

The captain was telling us that in the east somewhere a similar thing happened. One of the crew liked the very ornate oars on the fishing boat and haggled till he had bought them. The people in the fishing boat sold them with great haste only to realise later that they had nothing to row home with and had to buy two planks from the ship at a great price I am sure.

3 December 1998
We lifted the anchor at about 2am this morning - I was so pleased as the ship was rolling around again and I thought that as soon as we were alongside things would be still and I could sleep. No such luck. We lifted the anchor and chugged to the pilot station (were the pilot joins the ship). Once there we were told to wait. After about an hour a pilot eventually got on board and we began the arduous journey to the harbour. So as things turned out we reached our berth at 06h00. And then all the hangers on arrive, such as immigration, chandlers, agents, police and anyone else hoping to get cigarettes. I felt sorry for the captain because he has to deal with all these skelems and didn't get any sleep until tonight.

Things turned out much the same as last time. We are not allowed to go ashore, but never fear the shops are here! I was disappointed to see no leather jackets. But they turned up in the evening. After about two hours of haggling and intense negotiation I managed to secure a beautiful jacket for you Dad. The starting price was $140, which of course I really laughed at. Then $120 was offered and again I said too expensive, and left the deck. The captain then came and asked me if I liked the jacket he had bought for his wife. Very like mine and rather nice. He paid $100 for it, so I knew that I was not paying more for yours. The jacket seller then tried a few more on Gav. He really hates the haggling and tries to keep away. In the end he disappeared and left it to me. The first jacket I looked at had a broken zip and I tried to use this, so the guy picked up another one to show me "NO PROBLEM it's okay." As he was vigorously zipping up and down the zip broke in his hands, with a flash as quick as lightening a new jacket appeared and the broken zip pocketed. But "eagle eye" me didn't miss a thing and shouted that he was selling rubbish to me and I am not buying rubbish. I walked away and he came trotting after with a new price. I offered him $80, so he said $80 and two cartons of cigarettes (worth about $10 each). I again laughed and told him I don't smoke and that pushed the price up again. I haggled some more about their poor quality and eventually we agreed on the price of $95.

I really enjoy the haggling and all the acting that goes with it, I hope you are happy with price. I think the jacket is really nice - lots of pockets and a removable hood.

4 December 1998
It is still early, so I will type again later. At the moment it is raining (as it has been off and on since we got here), it doesn't seem to matter with the loading of the cargo though. We were scheduled to leave at 10am today, but I am not sure if that is still so.

5 December 1998
Well we finally left at about 1pm, after much sitting around and wanting to leave. Of course as soon as we were on our way the big clean up began. All the hoses taken out and the ship sprayed clean of the phosrock we had loaded. The stuff gets everywhere and takes weeks to get rid of (it's like a very fine sea sand). I have spent most of today reading and as soon as the deck was clean enough I went to run (about 3km again). We have been rolling quite a bit, Gav says one of the ballast tanks are half empty and this causes the ship to roll because the water is slopping around in that tank. I think what happens is as we roll all the water moves to that side and causes the ship to be heavier and roll with more force. He says the tank must either be full or empty at all times. At the moment it is supposed to be empty as we have a full load of cargo. The ballast tanks are used when we are sailing empty. They get filled with water in an attempt to stabilize the ship. Gav also says that the engines work much better with a full cargo and at full speed.

6 December 1998
Another Sunday has come around. Nothing really happening today. I ran again and am going to increase the distance now. Gav also ran a bit - he looks really uncomfortable running and I am not sure how long it will last for.

7 December 1998
Another uneventful day is coming to an end. My ear is very sore again and I am wondering if I have dislocated my jaw like I did last year. It feels the same as it did then. If that is the case there is nothing I can do except sit through the soreness. It has been a rather melancholic day. I have been thinking about all my family so far away, wondering how they all are. I have not been able to run today. The port side of the deck is being sprayed by the sea and the starboard side is rather slippery for some reason. We are pitching a great deal - hence the wet decks. I think I would rather not slip on my aahlie if I can help it.

8 December 1998
Another night of pitching and rolling, I wonder if I'll ever get used to it. Not much happening today. I have covered some books for Gav and made hard covers for them. I have done some more sewing, read and then went for my run (3.5km). The deck is still really slippery so it is really hard going. It is also starting to get hot and humid, which doesn't help.

9 December 1998
Today has been a beautiful and calm day, I hope tonight is as good. It is 20h45 and Gav asleep on the couch. I think it is far too early to be sleeping and am not really sure what to do with myself. I don't want to watch a movie as the choices are running out and we have already seen one tonight. So I suppose that I'll end up reading again - I do so much of that already. No other news. I nearly killed myself running today - 5 km. My breathing is fine but my legs feel as if they are going to give way, I hope that they are going to get stronger. I am going to have to run later in the evenings now as it is getting rather hot in the late afternoon. I think I must sweat enough to refill the Atlantic.

10 December 1998
We have now been away from home for a month - can you believe it? I just hope that the next three go as quickly. We are going to try to stay on the ship until mid April. Then have two and a half months leave, join the next ship early July and stay for five months, i.e. come home early December. I hope that all our plans work out.

The company is in the process of being sold, but to who we have not been told. It is a bit of a worry as far as long term work goes. We will know by early next year what is happening.

12 December 1998
Another very windy day. We are having a braai tonight - I hope that the wind does not ruin it. Last night was really rough. I think we went through storms all night. We have a tentative cargo for after Mexico. We are to go to Corpus Christi in Texas and collect grain. Rather complicated. We have to load at least four grades of grain in one hold - with sheets of plastic between each grade. We will then take the grain to Italy and off load in three ports. One near Naples and the other two on the east coast. This will probably take at least two weeks, so we will be there till sometime in February. So more than likely we will spend Christmas in Mexico and New Year in America. The Captain is going to be on the ship until Italy so no wife as yet. The captain that was supposed to come with his wife was sent to another ship because that captain was fired for being drunk.

13 December 1998
Only twelve days till Christmas and 18 till 1999 - wow. Nothing really happening, the braai was nice - always good to have a change from everyday boredom of the saloon eating. It is getting really hot now.

17 December 1998
Today we heard that we won't be taking the grain from Corpus Christi to Italy anymore. We will now be taking petcoke from Texas City/Galveston to Spain, a harbour just south of Barcelona called Valencia. Actually I am glad to be going to Spain rather than Italy - a chance to see something new. I just hope that Texas City will be as nice as everyone said Corpus Christi is.

21 December 1998
Well I haven't written for a few days due to the total lack of news. At the moment we are at anchor in Coatzacoalcos. We arrived on Saturday night (today Monday) and expect to go in sometime tomorrow. This of course means that we will definitely have Christmas here - horaay. I have still been trying my luck at fishing, but have not caught anything yet. The Filipinos have caught a lot - some really good sized fish, so I will carry on trying.

22 December 1998
At last I caught fish. After fishing all day again yesterday at last night I decided to give up. The first mate was fishing right next to me and he caught about three packets of fish. Gav and I asked him what he was doing differently. He was using a feather. So Gav had a few tries and caught a few, then it was my turn - I caught ten by the time I was finished and the best was I caught two on the same line. I spent this morning cleaning fish with the first mate and the second engineer. So I have learnt about how they clean fish, heads stay on as do the scales. They just clean out the guts and gills, then slice the fish across the tummy and fry. Very tasty to eat. We also tried some of their dried fish - I didn't like it at all. No other news at the moment. We are hoping to go in tomorrow afternoon. It is stinking hot here and so I have not run for the last few days.

24 December 1998
Went alongside today, and ashore tonight. We went to a real cowboy restaurant, they only had beef on the menu. So Gav ordered a T-bone and I ordered ribs (thinking they would be pork - no luck). And then the fun began. First chips and hot sauce arrived, then a bowl of bean soup each. After all of that a bowl of melted cheese and a bowl of pancake looking things. Neither of us knew how to eat the things and I am sure we didn't do it right (by the grins on the waiters face). Only after all this food had been consumed did we get what we had ordered. It seems to me that at any restaurant overseas you order and always get all sorts of things that you didn't order. At the end of the meal four Mexicans arrived with guitars and asked if we wanted them to play - at a fee of course. They played on very loud long which was a rather nice way to end the evening. We bought a hammock for our verandah. It is big enough to fit about four people - can't wait to try it out. I twisted my ankle while crossing a road (the big excitement of the evening). I was so busy watching the car that was speeding towards us that I was not watching the road and so twisted my foot into a pothole. It is really sore, I just hope that it is just sprained. We won't be able to go ashore tonight (came in yesterday at 12h00) because we will be taking bunkers (the ship will be pumping fuel on board), so tonight I will try to get some of my self caught fish baked for supper.

25 December 1998
                                                          MERRY CHRISTMAS

We got up and had breakfast, then came back to the cabin to open our presents. At lunch time we went to the saloon not knowing what to expect - what a spread and so nicely laid out too. There were nuts and fruit and salads and turkey, pork and tongue. Then there was chocolate cake, cheese cake, Christmas cake and fruit mince pies. We took a photo to show you how nice it all looked - I hope it comes out. In the afternoon Gav had a sleep and I watched a movie. Gav had to get up at 04h00 to fix a crane that was making a funny noise.

27 December 1998
We are now getting ready to leave Coatzacoalcos for Texas City. The pilot is on board and the tugs are busy tying themselves to us. We finished cargo and bunkers last night, but this harbour only takes ships in and out in the light. The port was closed yesterday due to bad weather and so today we are number 15 in the queue to be moved. So we have been sitting all day waiting - now 16h00. My foot seems to be getting better slowly - so I am almost sure there are no broken bones. I can walk normally and it only gets sore of I put it at a certain angle, this means I just won't put it at that angle (I can hear Mom saying that to me - hee ha)

1 January 1999

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!! We had a relatively good evening. We sat with the Filipino's in the officers lounge, with beers, popcorn and dried fish, until the time. When midnight came they all put their hands in their pockets and shook some coins. This is a Filipino tradition and is supposed to bring luck and no lack of money for the next year. We are still at anchor and are meant to go in today - we will wait and see.

2 January 1999
We are now finally on our way to the berth. We kept getting delayed yesterday. First we were told that we were going in at midday. Then it was at 22h00. Then at half past one in the morning we put the pilot's ladder down and the engines were tested. The anchor lifted and we were on our way only to be told to drop anchor because the weather was too bad. We had a warning for extreme thunderstorms and even a tornado. We had a storm - not what I would call that extreme. I think Americans tend to go overboard most of the time. Of course at the moment I have completely square eyes from all the T.V. There are some really strange shows. There is one called Ricci where people tell their loved ones horrible things for the first time, i.e. a girl will tell her friend that she has been sleeping with this friend's boyfriend - all this on live TV and first time news to the friend. Absolutely terrible - some really sick people in this world (those with the stories and those who take pleasure in watching the drama unfold. Well this really shows how people are voyeurs).

We are finally here. We came alongside at midday. Agents, immigration and customs arrived and we had to parade for immigration to get shore passes. Luckily no problems - apparently they can be rather sticky about allowing us ashore. We are only here for two days so won't have much time to go ashore. The biggest problem is that the loading crane is fixed so the ship has to shift back and forward to allow the crane to load in all the holds. Quite a hassle if anyone wants to go ashore at any time.

3 January 1999
Good news! We went ashore last night. A surveyor very kindly took us to the mall. First we looked at Sears (sort of like Woolworths). Gav bought himself a pair of running shoes that fit properly. When he put his jeans on last night he realised that he has developed a boep, so now he is going to run. He had other shoes but they were too big and so very uncomfortable. We walked around the rest of the mall, but not really that much to see. The Surveyor then came to fetch us and we went to collect other crew at Wal-mart. Of course this meant we had a look in there too. This shop is open 24 hours a day and is sort of like Game or the hypermarket. We bought ourselves some tea snacks and a cross stitch thing for me. The embroidery cotton was only 28 cents for a skein. So as you can imagine I have a whole heap now. I was rather disappointed in these malls. I think ours are much nicer. The only bit of residential part we saw looked rather poor. But then it was right next to a factory. All the houses were wooden planks - no wonder they panic with heavy winds, they will probably be blown away.

5 January 1999
We are still in America, but leaving tomorrow. We went out to supper with the second engineer, to a Chinese restaurant. One of those ones where you have a charge and eat as much as you can. So for $7 each we all made pigs of ourselves on all the seafood we could consume. I also ordered a Coke - guess what? It is like a bottomless cup here. As soon as I finished one another was brought free of charge. No wonder people are so fat here.

6 January 1999
Well we are on our way again. We left Texas last night at midnight for the 16 day journey to Spain. I was pleased to talk to you before we left, I also phoned Leeanne to say hello. We went ashore again yesterday. We saw a Bushnell telescope for only $199,99. I wanted Gav to get it. I am sure he would have except that the box was open and we were not sure if all the parts were in the box. The other problem was that the shop assistant told us that it was the last one and it was a return - why was it returned? It would be terrible to get home and discover that a vital part was missing and we couldn't get it. Anyway I hope that we see another one at a good price. We also went into a shop called "The Hobby Lobby", the name tells it all. Mom you would have loved this shop - I definitely needed about a week of camping in it to see all they had to offer. This was a huge shop (about the size of the sack factory) filled with fabric, stamps and stickers, fabric paints, polystyrene shapes, wooden things to paint, tapestry, all types of embroidery, all types of painting and drawing equipment, flower arranging gear, beads, stencils, puzzles, building things like model aeroplanes, making carpets or quilts etc etc - anything you can think of to do for hobbies. I was in heaven.

The sad part about leaving is now there will be no T.V. to watch. It has been freezing. I never thought that Texas got cold - at night about minus 2. The reason is it is snowing heavily in Central America and the wind is blowing cold air this way.

10 January 1999
Well no news for the last couple of days, just the usual routine. Gav and I started running again yesterday. Unfortunately today is out as it is raining. We have had reasonably good weather so far. But the swell is rather rough and we have begun to roll a bit - nothing too drastic though. I sent an e-mail, hope you got it. We bought a pair of decent running shoes for Gav in America. He has put on a few wobblies and is hoping to jog them away. I think that I am the lucky one with no more wobblies than usual.

Today Gav got a hard bristled broom for me and I began the task of cleaning the cabin floor properly. When I lifted the mat at the door there was a brown stained outline of the mat all. At least I managed to get rid of it and give the floor a really good scrub. The cargo we are carrying is really very dirty and gets into everything. It seems to have a oily base and sticks to everything.

12 January 1999
We are having some really rough weather at the moment. Gav says the Atlantic is always very rough at this time of year. I wish it wasn't because I really battle to sleep in this rough weather and so I am always feeling tired. As you can imagine the weather also doesn't allow for anything involved in going on the very dangerous deck. The spray gushing over the ship starts from the bow and sprays right until about half way down the ships deck. I am so bored now that I have taken to washing all the curtains in the cabin. You know you are losing your mind when cleaning becomes fun!!!! (hee ha)

15 January 1999
Well the news of the day is that we will be doing the Casablanca to Mexico run again. What a pity. I was hoping to go somewhere else. Anyway, the good news is that a new captain is joining in Spain and it sounds as if he is bringing his wife with him. The message said that he and his wife were going to have a holiday in Spain and then he would join the ship when it arrived. So we are assuming that his wife is coming too - I really hope so.

Yesterday was a decent day, after having terrible weather since we left America. So Gav and I got the chance to get a little exercise on the ship's deck. Today looks rather nice too - I just hope the wind doesn't start to blow, and the swells stay as they are.

18 January 1999
Well only five days till we finally get there. I can't wait. We have had really big swell again and are really having huge big rolls from side to side at the moment. I am therefore looking forward to a still ship for a short while - as well as the mail that is sure to arrive in Valencia.

You'll never guess where we are going next. Yep good old Casablanca and Mexico - AGAIN. I really hope that this is the last time - I want to see something new now.

21 January 1999
Our last day till we reach Spain. We went through the Straits of Gibraltar at about four this morning. So far the sea is really flat and it is plain sailing.

22 January 1999
We are here, we are here. It is raining and cold. As usual all the chaos of customs and immigration as well as the arrival of the new crew. There is also to be and internal audit so one of the guys from the office is also here. Valencia looks like it is quite big, but a fair distance away - quite a walk.

The interesting thing that has happened is Gav got a phone call from the gang watch (almost as soon as the gangway went down) saying that there was someone to see him. Gav told them to bring him up to the cabin. In walked a very nervous looking darkish man. This man said he was from one of the Greek cargo ships. He said that he had come to say hello because he had a friend on the sister ship the Cape Aguluhus. At that time a customs officer walked in and the man became even more nervous. The customs guy left and the strange man then asked Gav to go out into the passage with him. As you can imagine my brain is telling me that something very odd is going on and I am praying that Gav is okay. The next thing I know Gav is back in the cabin and the man is gone. Gav says he called him outside and then showed him a gold chain he wanted to sell to Gav. Gav told him to get lost. Gav says that this is not the first time that this has happened to him - well it was my first time and I didn't like how quickly it all happened and how strange it all was. We will definitely keep our cabin locked all the time here. The strange man probably is a Spaniard and stole the necklace from some other ship.

23 January 1999
LETTERS, LETTERS, OH WONDERFUL LETTERS. It is so wonderful to read about all the goings on at home.

My embroidery is going quite well. I have made a set of serviette rings (not completely finished because I need a few things from home to do that), I have also made a needle book for needles and a little pocket for the scissors. At the moment I am making a table cloth (a fruit design in white embroidery with bits of material cut out so that you can see the table through the cloth). It is proving to be rather difficult - I think I am probably being very fussy about the neatness of the stitches but I really want it to be something special.

24 January 1999
We went out to supper last night with the ships fleet manager (here to do an internal audit). We had a really nice evening, lots of rubbish chat - but very enjoyable. Haven't really seen what shore looks like (as we drove past in a taxi last night) but I am sure that I will get a chance one of these days. Five of the crew went home last night and by now must be landing in JHB - lucky bums.

26 January 1999
We are still here - probably leaving here tomorrow afternoon or the following morning. Last night Gav and I went ashore and strolled around for the evening. Valencia seems like a rather nice place - a big city. We had something to eat at McDonald's and coffee at a little shop. Didn't buy anything but took a photo at the bull ring. We saw the matadors exercising for the coming season of bull fighting.

The new captain arrived yesterday. And guess what he brought with him - yup his wife. So things are looking up. Rose and I went ashore today and shopped till we dropped. I didn't buy anything because it is all very expense, but Rose certainly spent some money. I was beginning to feel really bad because she was buying things for the cabin and I was not getting anything extra for our cabin. But as I said to Gav I think it is a waste to buy stuff that I am not going to take home (especially in such an expensive place). People seem really friendly here and we had no problems asking for directions to the market (mercado), except when we asked a deaf and dumb woman. Trust me to ask directions of a deaf Spaniard - hee haa.

29 January 1999
We will be arriving in Casablanca this afternoon. We have a really nice and comfortable journey here. Of course there has been the mad rush to get the holds clean for the next cargo (phosrock). I have been doing the usual cleaning and scrubbing. After off loading that terrible black stuff (petcoke) the cabin is filthy, so everything has to be scrubbed and de-oiled.

The new captain and his wife seem nice enough, it's nice to have a little extra company occasionally. I feel really sorry for Rose trying to get that cabin looking decent. I don't think it has a proper clean ever, so she has her work cut out for her.

31 January 1999
We left Casablanca late last night. Gav only got to bed at four this morning, so you can imagine how tired he is. Today is the big clean up after all the dust - and dust there is a plenty. So everything has been wiped or washed in the cabin. I am hoping that the decks will be clean enough to run tomorrow afternoon. It is rather frustrating to just get into the running mode and then to go along side and not to be able to exercise for a while. I haven't run since the 23rd (just over a week). So although it won't be too hard to start again the motivation is a little low. Not really that much news. Casablanca was just the same as always - everyone asking for cigarettes and giving you a hard time if they don't get them. Gav bought a leather jacket from the guys who come to the ship. We had decided not to buy anything this time, but still went to look at what was for sale. Of course the sellers all nag you to look at what they have to sell. If you show the slightest interest you are a target. So Gav starts looking at the leather jackets - of course before you know what is happening the seller has managed to make you put one on. I keep saying the jacket is too big and the seller says "it's the space for the jersey." The jacket is so warm that Gav will never wear a jersey underneath it. Then the seller wants a price and Gav says he doesn't want the jacket. So eventually another one gets tried on. By now we are trying to get away which is impossible because the seller is hot on our heels. We go inside (with the jacket) and discuss whether the jacket is worth buying and whether Gav really wants it or not. We decide and go back outside and begin the haggling over the price. Eventually, after much theatrics, we agree on a price. We go upstairs to get the money and Gav is the proud owner of ANOTHER leather jacket.

2 February 1999
Wow the first month of the year is already gone. And we are nearly three months into the trip. Not much really happening here. We started running again yesterday, after an enforced ten day break. I did the usual five kilometers and thought that I would be really stiff this morning - not so. Yesterday I cleaned the room that had the table tennis equipment in it. This room tends to be a dumping ground for anything that is broken or dirty. I got so tired of trying to pick my way through all the rubbish to play table tennis that I decided to blitz the place. So everything was scrubbed and packed away. I hope now that it is clean people won't think it is the dump site. It is also much more pleasant to play table tennis without worrying what disease I might get if I touch any of the filth around me.

4 February 1999
A rolly polly day ahead of us. But hopefully by tonight we will be out of the low pressure. It is raining at the moment. I am rather pleased because now I have an excuse not to run today. We had fire drill today - I am sure that the crew was shocked because we normally have it on a Saturday. Nothing out of the usual though. It looks as if we will head back to Europe after this cargo. It seems as if we will dry-dock in Lisbon. I will probably come home from there (not sure what the company has in store for Gav). But by the time we get there our four months are up. So to save on the ticket I'll come home from there.

5 February 1999
What a terrible night we had. I am sure no one slept a wink with the heavy rolling. But it now looks as if the worst is over - hip hip hooray. We heard yesterday that after Mexico we will go to Beaumont (USA) to collect petcoke, and to top up in Texas. We will take the petcoke to somewhere in Sardinia and Gaeta (Italy). After that it seems we will go to dry-dock somewhere in Europe. And then more than likely home for us. I am sure the ship will carry on with the Casablanca to Mexico run.

7 February 1999
Last night we had a braai. It was really pleasant to have a change from the normal hum drum of the ship. One of the crew asked the captain to organise some games for the ship. So it was decided that on this coming Wednesday the games would begin with a dart tournament - can't wait. I really hope that this comes off, it will make such a nice change from watching a movie every night. Gav is feeling rather buffalo tongued today and has been rather pale. He said he had too many beers - of course a heavy rolling ship does not help at all. I have been trying to get him to drink water but he says it makes him want to vomit - shame!!!

10 February 1999
Still chugging our way to Mexico, tonight we should be going into the Gulf of Mexico. The weather has been rough so no running. But it is now beautiful - the sea looks like glass at the moment and has been like this all day. I really hope that this weather stays with us until we get there on Monday (today Wednesday). No other news, just the usual routine of passing the days by.

11 February 1999
The most interesting thing that has happened today is that Gavin went into one of the ballast (store water when we are empty to make the ship more stable, these tanks are underneath the decks on either side of the ship) tank to inspect it. This is quite a process as two manholes had to be opened last night to allow fresh air into the tank. Then this morning a machine was put in to pump in fresh air and pump out the poison air. When all this is done Gav and the first mate go down into the depths to see what condition the tank is in. I don't like the idea of Gav in these tanks as I have heard do many stories of men collapsing, and sometimes dying, in the tank from lack of oxygen. This is what worries me most about dry-dock as Gav will be in and out of tanks all the time.

It has been another lovely day and I have spent some time sitting outside. We are now busy going past the Bahamas and the islands look as if they have some really lovely beaches - wish we could go there and see.

12 February 1999
I can't believe it - well actually I can. Our whole trip to the US and then Italy has been aborted. Our charterers, TGP, (people who secure our cargoes) say they were unable to secure the cargo so now we don't know where we will be going. This is really true to form as we never seem to end up going to the places we are told, there always seem to last minute changes. Rather upsetting as I had a long shopping list for America, maybe we will still go there - I hope so.

13 February 1999
Well it seems as if our beautiful weather has come to an end and we are now back to the heavy rolling and even rain. Not that it really matters as we will be getting there at midnight tomorrow night. It is so rough today that the sea is gushing over the starboard side at waist height every time we roll that way, I have tried to take a photo but I am not sure if it will be a dramatic as the real thing. We will anchor and go in at six on Monday morning. So I suppose that this means I will get no sleep tomorrow night because I will be fishing.

16 February 1999
We arrived in Coatzacoalcos on the 14th at midnight and went to anchor. I waited up and tried my luck at fishing. At 3am, with no fish, I decided to go to bed. We came alongside yesterday at midday to the usual seeing of immigration, etc. Today Rose and I are going ashore - can't wait.

Well we went ashore and had a lovely time. We first looked at the fish market - what wonderful big fresh fish, we then walked around the market looking at all the dried chili's and other unusual things for sale, I bought some mangoes and some pecan nuts. We then went into some other general shops looking at clothes and shoes, etc. Mexico is not really that expensive and so I was able to buy a few things. We eventually discovered a flea market and had a good look around. Rose bought herself a very nice leather weave (made in Mexico) belt. I wanted to get Gav one but decided to wait for him to come ashore to choose his own. After much strolling around we went for lunch at a restaurant with a balcony looking onto the river/harbour. We both had Coronas and shrimp cocktails. The cocktail was not at all like we get at home. The shrimps are in water mixed with a chili sauce, then on the top was cloves and onions (quite a strange taste). We eventually got back to the ship at three in the afternoon only to discover that Gav wanted to go ashore for the evening. First I took Gav to the flea market to look at the belts. He wasn't that interested so we left that, on strolling through the flea market I saw a nice dress - so Gav bought it for me (the back is rouged). We then went to the same restaurant for some supper. Gav had fish and I had poached fish rolled like a beef olive and filled with other seafood - delicious.

17 February 1999
Rose and I went ashore again today and again had a lovely time. We went to the market for Rose to buy some chilies and then to the flea market again. Bought another dress. Then again to the nice restaurant. This time I had a thing called an enchilada mole and really hoped I wasn't eating real mole. As it turned out it was a pancake roll filled with chicken and covered in a brown sauce. I later found out that the sauce is made of twelve different chilies, chocolate (could have fooled me) and something like soy sauce. The sauce was rather spicy but a really tasty snack for lunch. While sitting there we watched all the pelicans feeding from the offcuts thrown from the fish market. They fight over the fish but don't really get aggressive (obviously enough for everyone), quite amazing to watch them pound the fish in their bill and then swallow the whole fish.

Later, back at the ship the chandler (supplies the food for the ship) brought along some curios. We bought a poncho and a charm bracelet silver sombrero. There wasn't really anything else unique to buy. Some gaudy plates and statues and some other jewelry. The cargo is nearly finished being discharged, but we'll probably leave early tomorrow morning as bunkers (fuel from the barge) will only finish then. So must finish this letter to get it posted. Oh, next we go up the Mississippi to load grain for the UK (don't know which ports yet).

20 February 1999
We have had a lovely voyage across the Gulf of Mexico and are now about to enter the Mississippi river. We will be anchoring just outside New Orleans until Monday (today Saturday). On Monday we go into a berth about 20 miles from the city to load grain. WE then go further up the river to another berth for more grain. Then it is across the Atlantic to Liverpool and another port (don't know where yet) to discharge the grain. The company is getting quotes for dry-dock in South Hampton so we might go there now. And will come home from there I am sure. By the time we finish dry-dock it will be April and we would have been here 5 months.

22 February 1999
Still at anchor in the Mississippi - can see New Orleans in the distance, so must be about 10 kilometers away. It is really cold here. Getting to zero degrees in the night. We are hoping to begin loading tomorrow or on Wednesday. We are loading a little further up the river at anchor. And then moving on to another berth further up, but going alongside for that.

25 February 1999
At the moment we are trying to get moving to shift to another anchorage. But there seems to be a problem - the anchor is stuck in the mud and won't come out. So what is happening at the moment is the captain is taking the ship, and dragging the anchor) into the middle of the river (deeper water) and then turning off the engine to let the current wash us backwards. While we are washing astern the mate is attempting to heave the anchor up, so far with little success. So I'll have to wait and see what happens. Well it took about three hours to get the anchor free. We then went a bit further up the river to another anchorage. We passed New Orleans (looks nice) and went under a huge San Francisco-type bridge. I took some photos and had a good look as we went past, I even saw one of those barrel rolling type river boats.

27 February 1999
Still sitting at anchor. We are hoping to go ashore today. The only problem is the launch costs a great deal of money and we have to take a taxi once we are on land to get to town. So we are going to try to go on the Chandlers boat there, and split the cost, hopefully with some of the crew.

28 February 1999
We went ashore yesterday and so I got to see New Orleans for the day. First a launch came to fetch us at the ship. There were five of us going ashore and so the fare was five dollars each. Once we got to dry land we had to get a taxi - again $5 each. Rose and the captain and the electrician were going to the local mall. We wanted to go to New Orleans, and so were dropped off at the airport to catch a shuttle bus to town. The taxi driver had said he would charge us $20 each to go to town and a shuttle bus was $21 each. Never the less we decided to try our luck from the airport. Once there we went to find out about transport, one taxi offered $5 each, but we managed to find the public bus at $3 for the both of us - quite a difference in the original price. I also got a map from the information desk and the man there told us what to see.

We took the bus and went to town. The first thing we did was find a quiet phone to call home. Then we went for a walk through the French quarter/Bourbon Street (where all the French lived when they came here in the mid 1700's). This mostly consists of restaurants and T-shirts as well as lots of music (people playing in the streets) and some mimes, mule carts taking people for rides, and tap dancers, etc. All rather fun to see and a good atmosphere. We had lunch while we were there. Both of us had Cajun seafood (local cooking style). After lunch we caught the street cart for a ride through the old town and had a look at the colonial/french/spanish style mansions of the old south. At the end of the run we hopped off strolled around, had an ice-cream and then took the cart back to town. We walked to what is called the "River Walk," this is really just a row of shops right on the river. Gav says that the last time he was here it was much nicer. We think that it has probably lost its atmosphere because a ship went into it not that long ago and they had to rebuild the whole thing. In rebuilding it is not right next to the river and once inside you cannot even see the river (so it is just like being in any mall). We heard on the news last night that another ship crashed there just after we were there - whew glad we weren't. (Well that story was wrong. What really happened was a chemical tanker lost its steering gear and crashed into a barge filled with oil. The barge leaked all the oil into the river and so there was a big drama in getting it all cleaned as quickly as possible. All this happened at our first anchorage site.)

Now back to our time in New Orleans. It was now getting dark and we decided to go back to the French quarter and see what was happening there. Of course darkness brings out all the party punks. It was lovely - lots of people walking around, live music from all the pubs and people generally having a good time. At one pub there were a whole lot of young men whistling from the balcony at any pretty girl that came past. One girl really enjoyed this and was really giving them a little dancing show. Her boyfriend/husband crept up behind her and lifted her shirt and gave all the boys a look at her naked chest. Of course you can imagine the shrieks of appreciation. Mind you the girl did not seem overly upset by the whole thing and merrily walked on. We went into one of the pubs and had a beer. By now we had been ashore for 12 hours and decided to head back to the ship. it took a while to find the right bus to catch back to the airport, but we eventually did. At the airport we caught the taxi to the launch station. We got rather upset that after all our saving we had to pay $15 for a very short ride (a real rip off to charge a flat rate from the airport). Anyway we got back to the ship tired after a really nice day of walking and seeing lots of interesting things.

1 March 1999
We sailed further up the river last night and are now loading three of the holds with grain. We should be finished late tomorrow night or early Wednesday morning. We will then go down the river to another berth and load the other two holds and finally will be on our way.

We won't be able to go ashore here as it is $60 one way on the boat and however much for a taxi.

3 March 1999
We have now arrived at our second berth and are again loading from barges in the middle of the river. But we will be able to go ashore at not too much expense here.

4 March 1999
Gav and I went ashore and had a day of walking around the mall. We bought some supplies for the voyage across the Atlantic and are now set to go. We bought some yoghurt, nuts, and some tea biscuits. We also got one of those airbeds (half the price of the same thing at home). Gav also bought a computer (wow). We had a lovely meal at a small Italian restaurant and generally had a good time. I had a migraine when we got back to the ship - and as I am sure you know that it is very unpleasant to feel that way. I had a couple of near vomits in the toilet, strange how that seems to make me feel better, and the migraine went away. At least it wasn't an all day affair.

7 March 1999
We have had decent weather so far, Gav says the ship shouldn't really roll badly because all the holds are full to the brim (something that we haven't had so far because the other cargoes have always been too heavy to fill the hold). With full holds the ship should be more steady. We are going through a low pressure storm at the moment and we aren't really rolling at all - hope it keeps this way.

We had a braai last night and as usual it was rather enjoyable. I am certain that everyone enjoys them as it is a nice change from the normal routine of things. We also had a fire drill yesterday - the usual putting on of life jackets and reporting to the bridge, then going to the starboard life-boat (Rose and I don't have to go as long as we know where we should be if the real thing were to happen).

10 March 1999
Rolling around at the moment and have been for the last two days - I think that we will all the way to the UK as it is that time of year for bad weather in the north Atlantic. It is really cold outside and I am sure getting colder all the time. I have not had the chance to run as the weather has been too bad.

12 March 1999
The weather has been foul, foul, foul - and one more for emphasis FOUL. I had a look at the weather chart for today and we are completely surrounded by low pressures with gale force winds and storms etc. So we have rolled and pitched and bobbed around ever since we got into the Atlantic, and it looks as if we will until we get to Liverpool. We have just had a fire drill - at least I didn't have to go outside in the gale and the rain like all the crew did. Water is constantly gushing onto the deck and so no one is working on deck today. All the crew are cleaning the accommodation - hooray. Well no other news for today. We are on our four month mark today. We received our flight details the other day, and are meant to be flying on the 21st of this month to Cape Town. We have asked if we can stay on until Bristol so that we can try to organise a little trip to Canada, but we have had no reply as yet to our request. The ship is not going to dry-dock until the next time it is in Europe (she is going back to Casablanca, Mexico, USA and then Europe). Can't wait to arrive in the UK and the thought of getting off and going on leave for two months.

16 March 1999
Only three days to go of this rough and bouncy weather. It is raining at the moment, but at least the rolling isn't excessive this morning. I am starting to get excited to leave the ship and have tidied up all the drawers and thrown out all the rubbish I have collected in the last four months. I really have to hold back on the packing or we will be ready to go tonight. Not really any other news.

19 March 1999
Our trip is now nearly over. We are supposed to arrive in Liverpool at 22h00, but because of the bad weather we have had we are more likely to arrive in the early hours of tomorrow and anchor. We will then go in sometime tomorrow. The weather has improved with no rolling and some sun shine. I can't wait to start packing. I have already started tidying up and getting ready to leave, so now I simply have to put our things into suitcases.

21 March 1999
We went ashore yesterday - boy is it expensive here. Even a cup of coffee and a doughnut for the two of us is R30. Of course we didn't buy anything at these prices. There is not really that much to say about the town here. Just an ordinary place with nothing interesting to comment on.

22 March 1999
Today Rose and I went ashore together. We took a taxi to Bootle Strand (the closest village) and from there on the train to Liverpool (about 15 minutes ride). In Liverpool we changed lines and went to Bromborough. We walked around the village for a short while and then caught the bus to a place called Brimstage (a small rural village - so nice to see a few farms and get away from the docks for a while). There is a craft shop there that we went to look at all their tapestry and embroidery goods - wow what a choice. I would love to have been able to buy something but it was all far too expensive. But they will send anything all over the world so maybe one day I will order something. After getting our fill of all the beautiful things we began our journey back to the ship. I was rather pleased to get back as it had started to rain and was bitterly cold.

We are meant to be leaving Liverpool at 11pm tonight, but I am sure that the rain has delayed us. All the same this is my last entry to this letter. By the end of this week we will be home, leaving from Bristol as soon as we arrive there, yippee.