Karoo: Journal 4 back

29 November 1999
I flew from Cape Town to Johannesburg on Saturday morning (left home at 6am) I arrived in a chaotic JHB airport. Gav arrived at 6pm and we then went to the international side to get his ticket and book our luggage in. The airport is really horrible. Noisy and crammed with people. After doing all the necessary things we went to get a cool drink and plate of chips.

After all the good-byes we went through the gate and got onto a full plane. I really am developing a hate for flying. One would think that a better design could be made for the seat in the cattle class. The least they could do is give a foot rest. I end up attempting to lie on the small of my back trying to sleep. Luckily this time we had those blow up pillows for our necks - which really do help. I think that managed an hour or two of sleep in the ten hour flight. We arrived at the Charles De Gaul (Charles the French) at 06h30 and were met there by a driver. We were whisked off at great speed (averaging 180 km/hour) to Dunkerque. The car trip was about two and three quarter hours long. We didn't get to see any of Paris as it was pitch dark outside. It only began to get light at about 09h00. So I didn't see too much of the country side either.

We arrived at the ship at about 10h30 and Gav began hand-over with the disembarking chief. I began the task of unpacking and trying to find places for all our stuff (places that they will stay in even when the ship is rolling). Our cabin is small but not bad at all. I was really expecting the worst and have been pleasantly surprised. The ship is very basic but is clean and we even have a carpet in our cabin. The bathroom (shower only) is so small that you cannot have two people in it at one time. We went to anchor at six in the evening and will be here till 3 December. We will then go back alongside to off load the rest of the iron ore. This will only take about one day. There is nothing here so going ashore is no good. The closest town is about 30 minutes away and it is just a dorp. I don't think I will go ashore until Quebec anyway. We are docking in a place called Sept Isles. Apparently a really nice place, just very very cold at -20 degrees.

2 December 1999
We are still in Dunkerque at the moment. The factory that off loads our cargo has broken down so at the moment nothing is happening. Apparently we will be leaving on Saturday (today is Thursday). Gav and I are hoping for as many delays as possible so that we can hopefully have Christmas in Quebec - although this is highly unlikely. I went ashore yesterday but saw nothing really interesting. I would love to be able to go on some sort of tour here as there is so much history to learn, the only problem is it is winter and so not catering for the likes of me. It is not as cold as I thought it would be here. Rather miserable with Cape like winter rains and about 10 degrees. But of course inside the ship accommodation it is warm and we can walk around in T-shirt and barefoot.

I went to the local shopping mall - only has four shops and a movie house in it. The town of Dunkerque is not as small as I thought and only about 5 minutes in the taxi. The only problem is things are so expensive here. Even the taxi ride costs $15. The only thing I bought was that game called Jenga. I went into a toy shop that had the most beautiful toys and hobbies. I would have bought some of the hobby things but all the instructions are in French which is of no use at all. I am really hoping that I will get to see an embroidery shop here as I am sure that they will have all sorts of wonderful things.

I really wish that we could still be at home as Gav and I really had a wonderful holiday and wish it could have gone on forever. But I am sure that the next four months will fly by and we will be at home again before we know it.

3 December 1999
Gav and I went ashore again yesterday. We caught the mission bus to town and then simply walked around. I still was unable to find an embroidery shop - I am sure that Canada will have something to offer in that line. I did buy a silk painting set (a patterned scarf and paint to fill in the gaps. I think that I am really going to enjoy doing it). We also bought a Christmas CD by Placido Domingo. I am listening to it now - still have to get to know the music to really appreciate it.

4 December 1999
Really nothing happening here today. Maybe we will go ashore tonight for a cup of coffee. We are going to be leaving tomorrow. That is of course if the off loading is finished before sunset (4pm) otherwise we will be going first thing Monday morning.

9 December 1999
We left Dunkerque as per schedule. This ship is much wider than any of the ships I have been on before and so thought that it would be a great deal steadier - boy was I wrong. The north Atlantic in winter is not a place that anyone wants to be. We are rolling and pitching like crazy. I am really tired because it is impossible to sleep in this bad weather. The weather is so bad that we only averaged 3 knots last night, and 5 knots yesterday. We should be going at about 14 knots. The wind is blowing at 60 km/hr (30 knots). The ship is pitching so much that the propeller keeps coming out of the water and the engine then threatens to cut out. No one is allowed on deck as we would most definitely get washed off. We are going to a place called Sept Isles. This is at the mouth of the St. Lawrence River. Apparently a really nice place. At the speed that we are going at the moment we will only get there next Thursday (16 Dec).

11 December 1999
It is Saturday again and we have just had our weekly fire drill. As usual I had to go to the bridge with my life jacket. Nothing really exciting happening here. The weather has improved a little and last night I even got a full nights sleep. It is still freezing outside and the wind is still howling. While I was on the bridge the ship did a few pitches. It is really amazing to see how the ship actually bends in the middle - rather scary. The second hold from the bow is filled with water in an attempt to weight the ship a little. Apparently if the hold was empty the ship would be too light and then get toppled over in some of the big swells we have been experiencing. It was discovered yesterday that the front hold was taking water - not really safe as it makes the ship unstable. It turns out that the hatch was not closed properly when we left Dunkerque.

14 December 1999
We have had some terrible weather and the ship has done some major rolling but the weather has now improved a great deal. Mostly because we are now in the shelter of a bit of land. I have been itching to get outside and have finally had the chance to walk on the deck. I must admit that I was a bit nervous after all the rough seas we have had, but I thoroughly enjoyed a little exercise - despite the freezing cold temperatures. I was really expecting to see ice blocks in the sea, but apparently it is not yet cold enough for that. I was really wishing to see this amazing sight - oh well maybe some other time.

16 December 1999
We arrived in Sept Isles on this afternoon and were hoping to spend the night at anchor. The pilot was busy taking a ship out of the harbour and had said we were not going to go in as the weather had become so bad - zero visibility. All the same he changed his mind and by 4 pm we were alongside. I was going to go ashore with some of the crew but decided to wait for Gav to finish what he had to do and then go with him.

We eventually were ready by 5pm (already dark) and were kitted up for the freezing and snowing weather outside. The gangway had fallen into the water and we had to wait for it to be properly secured, wind was howling which didn't make things any better. After finally getting off the ship we now had to try to get a taxi to come and fetch us. So after getting someone to phone a taxi and waiting in the cold we finally got to town. Sept Iles is quite a nice place. Not all that big but it has a Wal-mart (sort of like a hyper market come Game shop) and a shopping mall. At Wal-mart we bought some things. It is really amazing that at the till they ring up the purchases, we tell the cashier that we have US dollars. She pushes a button on the till and the price is converted from Canadian to US dollars. So we didn't have to change money at a bank. Of course the change we get is Canadian, but this is a way of getting money to use for coffee, etc.

So after walking around these places for a while we decided to have some supper. Nothing fancy just filled our tummies. There was another mall across the road from this restaurant and so we went to see what shops were there. Mostly clothes shops. I saw a really pretty music box. I would have bought it but discovered it was plastic and not leather. Well I'll keep looking for one. By now all the shops were closing (9pm) So we went for some coffee at Tim Hortons (coffee shop) and got a taxi back to the ship and jumped into a nice warm bed

17 December 1999
It didn't snow today, but everything is knee deep in beautiful clean snow. Gav and I are going ashore again today. It is so nice not to have cranes on the ship. At least this is one less worry for Gav and he can come ashore with me more easily.

We again called a taxi and were taken into town (after phoning home). I bought Gavin his birthday present (a very reasonably priced telescope) I am rather please as he has wanted one for a while and now I have managed to get one that isn't very expensive. I also got a few embroidery things. I was hoping to find a really nice embroidery shop - no such luck. So I had a limited choice from Wal-mart. We also managed to find a big computer shop. We bought some games and a program to keep viruses off the computer (a good buy I think). As it is fairly warm today the snow is all turning to mulch and is very dirty and slippery. Quite a job not to get soaked or to slip in the stuff. We went to the local library to try to send e-mail home but for some reason the letter wouldn't go.

19 December 1999
We left Sept Iles yesterday at six in the morning. I was rather sad to leave as I thought it was rather a nice place. It is snowing again. Last night was absolutely freezing. I am sure it is the same outside again today. I have really enjoyed seeing snow falling out of the sky, but and very glad I don't have to live with it - especially when it melts and gets all dirty and slushy. The other problem is walking in it. You always have slightly wet socks and trousers. I suppose if we lived with it we would have proper clothes for walking in it.

24 December 1999
So far the weather has been really good. And I have started running on the deck again. I hope that the weather remains like this so that I can run every day until we get to Australia (26 January 2000)

25 December 1999
                                                  Merry Christmas

Yesterday I spent the afternoon in the galley. I first made a cake for Gav's birthday and then some snacks for the evening. I tried to have a little birthday celebration in the evening - with candle and wine. All in all I think Gav had a good day.

The weather has changed and the wind is blowing now. We had a braai at lunch (carried over to supper). It would have been much nicer if the weather had been better. Anyway I think most enjoyed themselves, with far too much to drink.

28 December 1999
We are again experiencing fine weather and today I ran 2.8km - not bad considering that it is only my third time. By the end of it I am absolutely finished and can hardly get back up the stairs to the cabin. Oh the price we pay for eating too much food - hee haa. I keep asking for kiddies portions at dinner. I think the Messman thinks that kids eat a huge amount of food.

It was the Fitter's birthday yesterday and so we celebrated last night. We spent the evening in the Officer's lounge/bar talking and playing darts. A rather pleasant evening.

31 December 1999
Well it is the last day of the millennium. I have spent the day sewing and have make a new dress for myself. I am still battling along with some of the sewing, but I am sure with practice I'll learn the tricks to make things a little easier. Tonight we are having a bar supper and will be in the Officer's lounge until the clock changes over to 2000 AD. I'll definitely have some coins in my pocket (a Filipino custom) to shake in the new year. This is supposed to bring good fortune for the coming year. We'll see.

1 January 2000
                                                 HAPPY NEW MILLENNIUM TO EVERYONE
and no Y2K glitches. We are still all here. The world did not come to an end - hooray. I hope for only the best things for you for the coming year.

Today we are going to have a lunch time braai and a supper one too (as you can imagine some people are going to be really drunk by the end of it. Come to think of it some people are already drunk - still from last night). The weather is wonderful and warm now so it will be really great to spend the day outside.

4 January 2000
Well a good time was had by all on new year. I spent a bit of time making salads in the galley (cook had too much of a party to cope with the preparation). Actually I rather enjoy having a little something to do in the galley occasionally. Life has now returned to normal. Captain panic does not have to worry about the computers anymore and we can now set our sights on arriving to get stores in Cape Town on 7 January. We will be doing all this off port limits (at anchor). Then it is 20 more days to Port Kembla in Australia. Today I spent the afternoon in a deck chair reading in the sun (appropriately creamed and hatted).

7 January 2000
Today we are going to be arriving off port limits - Cape Town. Unfortunately we won't be coming inside and will only be changing two crew and receiving some stores. So after a quick four hour stop we will be on our way again to Australia.

I have been spending the last few afternoons in the sun - getting a slight tan (not too much though). The weather has been really wonderful - beach going weather.

9 January 2000
Well Cape Town has come and gone and we have been rolling ever since. I hope things improve soon. It is very hot at the moment as Gav has turned off the aircon. The only problem is if he turns it back on then we freeze. So I have all the portholes open and a gale going through the cabin. The curtains are horizontal.

11 January 2000
Things weather wise have calmed down again - thank goodness. We are due in Port Kembla on 27 January. Apparently we will be there for approximately 6 days. I had a look in the port guide books and Port Kembla is only 80 kilometers south of Sydney. There are trains to Sydney so I am hoping to get the chance to go there.

I took all the Christmas decorations down today. Now another year to go. It seems as if we hardly had a Christmas at all. This year I hope we are not on a ship for Christmas and new year.

15 January 2000
Still on our way to Australia - only 11 days to go. I cannot wait to get there. This is the longest time that I have ever been at sea for (since 18 December, that is 40 days without setting foot on dry land - wow). We are having some bad weather again. I hope that it doesn't last too long. I was really hoping that we would have a roll free voyage - well almost made it.

I have been sewing wildly and have now made a shirt for myself. I am not sure if I really like it that much, especially because I know where all the mistakes are. Oh well I am sure that I will improve with practice. Gav says that there is a huge material market in Sydney with really cheap material. I am planning to get the train to Sydney and hopefully go to see it. I think I'll try to go on a day tour of the city if I can manage that. I am really looking forward to getting there. I was thinking last night that I have just about been to all the continents in the world now (South America, North America, Europe and Asia). The only place I haven't been to is the Soviet. I think I am rather lucky to have been to all these places in such a short time.

19 January 2000
I am sure that this letter is not really that interesting. But then I can't exactly make the days any more interesting. The weather has been great and generally I think that we have been rather lucky. It is cool outside but the sea is flat. I have now make a Video list for the ship. The same as I have done for all the ships I have been on. I am not sure if anyone even looks at the list, but at least there is a list of all the videos available to see.

21 January 2000
Not really any news from here. I am really looking forward to arriving in Australia. At the moment we are about four hundred nautical miles west of Aussie. But of course we have to go through the Bass Strait (lies between Aussie and Tasmania) and then on to Port Kembla - just 80 km south of Sydney. This means that we will be arriving there this coming Wednesday 26 Jan. So only 6 more sleeps for me till we get there.

The weather is still great. I spent a bit of time in the sun today, plastered from head to toe in sun screen. So it doesn't even look as if I was in the sun. It is really nice to spend some time outside on the ship. One can get really cooped up in the cabin. I am always trying to open portholes and switch off the lights. I want fresh air and natural light (I really hate fluorescent lights - they make me feel sick after a while). I try to spend a bit of time outside everyday - especially if it is nice and warm. The ship has a couple of deck chairs. So I usually put on my costume and hat. Take a cool drink and my book. And so I spend the afternoon reading in the lovely warm sun. Pity there is no pool on deck - then I would really be in paradise.

25 January 2000
We went through the Bass Strait today and I have had my first glimpse of Australia (and Tasmania). Now that we are close to land we can get TV. I spent the afternoon watching the Australian Tennis open. It was really nice. I am really surprised at how cool it is here. It is only 16°C outside. I thought that Australia was hot in summer - not here.

26 January 2000
We have arrived in Port Kembla. Tonight we will spend the night at anchor and are due to go alongside at lunch time tomorrow. We were welcomed by a wonderful fire work display. Today is Australia day and so the town had a fireworks display - we were lucky enough to see it from the ship while anchoring. It was really pretty to see all the colours lighting up the night sky. It has been raining all day (stopped now) and it has now become really humid.

27 January 2000
We have come into the port today. We had a tug called the Karoo pulling us. Apparently the word Karoo in the Aborigine language means bay. There is a lake near here that has a bay called Karoo. Amazing that a tug and ship has the same name. We only came in at 3pm and so there won't be time to go ashore today. I was hoping that we would go tonight but Gav has things to be here because the bunker people will be here to pump fuel on board. So I will have to settle for waiting to go ashore tomorrow and just watch some Australian TV tonight.

Gavin phoned Lynette (Mitch's cousin) and we organised to see them on Saturday in Sydney. We are going to get the train to their house. I might spend the night and see more of the city on Sunday. Unfortunately Gav won't be able to stay as duty calls - as always.

28 January 2000
Today I went ashore for the whole day. I got a lift to town with the agent. The agent dropped me in the town called Wollongong (10 minutes from Port Kembla). There is a big shopping mall here and everyone is having a sale. I started off by walking through the shopping mall. All malls are much the same. Lots of smallish clothes shops and shoe shops as well as some news agents, etc. I don't think that Australia is all that cheap. Much the same as home. The good thing is things are good quality and at least you are relatively safe from buying pirate things. If it is a pirate it is openly said.

I always feel a little strange walking in shops in other countries because I never know what all the shopping customs are, i.e. can I touch the things or open boxes, etc. After having a good look around I decided to try to find a sewing shop. After asking a few people where I could find a shop I was given directions. The one thing that is cheap here is material. As you can imagine I had a wonderful time in this shop. I must have been there for about 3 hours. I bought a few metres of material and then had a look at the embroidery things. Unfortunately this was rather expensive so I just looked for ideas and didn't buy anything.

By now I was starving so I went to McDonald's and has a chicken burger. It is terrible to sit on my own and eat in a crowded mall. I really wished that Gav was with me. Anyway after lunch I went to find a hardware shop. My embroidery ring wing nut was totally stripped and I needed a new one. I didn't want to by a whole new ring just to stretch my embroidery material. Again I asked around and was given directions. I had to walk halfway across town to find the hardware, but eventually did, and successfully got a new wing nut. On the return walk to the mall I came across a tourist information centre and decided to stop in and see what the area had to offer in the way of sights. Not anything in Port Kembla. But I did get a map and tourist guide for Sydney and will read it thoroughly to see what I am going to see when I go to Sydney. I also bought a souvenir here. A tile with the Australian map all enclosed in cast iron shaped like a tea pot (to put hot pots on and save the kitchen counter from being burnt). I then began my journey back to the mall and came across a sewing machine shop. They have some really nice embroidery machines (Brother and Bernina), I would love to have such a thing but they are really expensive. Anyway by now it was 5pm and so I decided to go back to the ship. I caught a taxi and looked forward to a shower and a good rest for my tired feet.

29 January 2000
Gav and I decided to go to Sydney today. We were hoping to get an early start - the alarm didn't go off. We eventually left at about 8 am. We took a taxi to the station, bought tickets and waited for the 9 o'clock train. We had a cup of coffee at McDonald's while we waited. We got onto the train and settled in for the 1-1/2 hour trip. The train was a double decker (I have never been on a double decker train) and so we sat on the top deck. It is rather nice as the view out is much better because you are higher up. I was really surprised by the beauty of the scenery on the way. Most of their railway runs along the side of a really steep mountain. So we looked way down onto the sea. The landscape is much like the Natal South coast (a very forestry feel). Lots of cliff drops and gorges into the sea and big trees, etc.

When the train arrived in Sydney central we changed trains to go to Derreck and Lynette. We had to get on the red line and go the Cheltanham station. All this was done with great ease (ah, what seasoned travelers we are - hee hee). The only problem was we couldn't find where to buy tickets. Eventually we gave the search up and got onto the train. I was nipping the whole time in case an inspector came to see our non existent tickets and fined us $200. What a relief to get to the Cheltanham station safely. From here we phoned Lynette and she came and fetched us. What a lovely home they have. The house looks into a deep gorge and you can't see anything but trees and other vegetation. Lynette had packed a picnic for us and they were going to take us on a little sight seeing trip - yay. While sitting in their lounge I saw a strange bird outside (a big tan/brown job) Guess what is was? A Kookaburra. I even heard it make its really strange call.

After some tea we packed the picnic basket and were off. First we were taken to an area called Manly. Here we could see across the Sydney harbour to the opera house and the famous bridge at Daring harbour. I never realised how beautiful Sydney is. So many interlocking waterways and gorges etc. So difficult describe this stunning place. We then went to a small amphitheater on the harbour waters. Our view directly across the water was the bridge and the opera house. We could also see the Prime Ministers house. There were thousands of yachts on the water too. We had a lovely picnic. Nice just to sit on the grass and relax (especially after 40 days of only seeing steel and water). While we were sitting there we could see people walking high up on the overhead rails of "the" bridge. Apparently this is quite the tourist thing to do at the moment. We were still sitting here admiring the view when a wedding party began to arrive. It sounds like it is a common thing here. People get married in the parks and along the bay to have the city as there back drop. I think a rather nice idea.

We didn't stay to see the wedding. But rather went on more touring of Sydney. We went right past the Opera house and of course over the bridge. To the botanical gardens and past a few of the historical sights (library, hospital and some prisoner sights). There is a small island in the middle of the bay which is affectionately known as gut pinch island. Apparently when prisoners were really bad they were sent here. There was not escape and they were given little to no food, hence the name gut pinch.

We then went to meet Lee (Lynette and Derrecks oldest daughter). She and her husband live in a 100 year old house in the city. We had tea there then took Gav to the station to get the train back to the ship. I had decided to stay the night and go to all the markets the next day. We dropped Gav off and went home.

30 January 2000
This morning I was woken up by the sound of Australian birds singing there strange sounding song - wow. Lynette and Derreck were kind enough to take me back into town and drop me off in an area called The Rocks. This is right at the point of their bay (near the opera house). I had a look at the market here. Lots of interesting things to see. A proper craft market. I liked the wood carvings but of course everything is priced for the American tourist. After looking at all the crafts I walked all the way up George street (a very looong street) Of course I stopped often to look at shops. Opals are a very big thing here. I read that 90% of all opals are found in Australia. They sell full stones, doublets and triplets (valued in this order from most to least valuable). Doublets and Triplets are slices of opals which are then covered in quartz. Of course the colour of the opal also makes a difference to the value - black being the most valuable.

I eventually got to the other end of George Street. On this side is Chinatown. Another market to look at. This market was absolutely packed with browses. I didn't really enjoy the human crush. So went back into the street fairly quickly. The only thing I bought was four huge mangoes. I also bought a smaller greenish opal pendant (triplet) from one of the numerous jewelry shops in the area. It was already 3 pm and so I decided I should start making my way to the train and heading back to the ship. I caught the 3:38 train and had an uneventful trip home. I got back to Wollongong at 5 pm and got a taxi straight back to the ship.

31 January 2000
You'll never believe it but I went ashore again today. The agent took me to Warranting. Port Kembla does not really have a town. Only the harbour. On the north side is Wollongong and on the south Warrangong. This little town is smaller than Wollongong but also has a shopping mall. I walked around the mall and then went to a video shop. The captain gave me $400 to buy videos for the ship. I bought a whole lot of videos and then got a taxi to Wollongong to buy more videos. Again I went to the material shop and bought some more material. I also got the rest of the videos. I went to an Internet cafe today and was hoping to get all our e-mail. But there was some kind of problem so I will try again if I get the chance. I got back to the ship at about 4 pm. Gav told me that we were going out to supper with the captain.

After a shower it was back ashore again. We went to a buffet restaurant. So I was bursting at the seams with all sorts of delicious vegetables and seafood. It is great to have different food from the ship. After supper we gambled a little. The restaurant had one arm bandits (called pokies here). We didn't win anything. It is rather misleading because $1 gets 100 credits on the machine. If you only spin one line it is only one credit. Your money lasts a long time but when you win 100 credits you think you have won $100 but have only won $1. All the same it was rather fun. When we got back to the ship I collapsed into bed after a really busy day.

3 February 2000
We are going to be leaving Australia tomorrow. I am hoping to go ashore one last time today. I will try to get to an Internet cafe and send all my e-mail's off. Gav an I went ashore yesterday. We walked around the mall and browsed a bit. I bought some fruit for us. The captain says that apples (I don't like apples) and oranges (they have no taste at all) are enough for the voyage across to the UK. I don't agree so bought some decent bits of fruit for us. We came back to the ship early expecting to leave at crackers this morning. But as things have turned out we are taking 3000 tons more coal. And will leave with the tide early tomorrow morning. Last night the local Filipino girls came on board again. They always come to visit the Filipino crew on the ship in all ports we go to. Well last night one of the women had cell phones with her. She was selling them ($85 for the phone, sim card and $10 talk time). We decided to see if the sim card would fit our phone. It did and so we bought it and $40 Australian to phone home. So of course I phoned home last night and had a good chat.

3 February 2000
We never left Australia on the early tide. It was decided that we would take another 3000 tons of cargo and leave on the tide tomorrow morning. Because this has been decided I will get a lift to town with the agent and have one last look around before we leave on our 40 day voyage to Redcar on the Tees river.

4 February 2000
Gav and I and the captain went ashore yesterday. First we had some pub lunch in a beer garden. (A delicious chicken and avo sandwich). I wanted one last look in the material shop and Gav wanted to go to the Internet cafe. So we went our separate ways. After one last look at all the embroidery things I went to meet Gav. I sent messages to everyone from the Internet cafe. The captain decided to get a taxi back to the ship. Gav and I walked around for a bit and then also went back to the ship.

After dinner we were going to walk to the front of the ship and try to get a decent photo of the Karoo. Captain panic (goes into panic mode at the drop of a hat) decided to come with us. After walking around the berth for a while it was suggested we go to town for ONE beer (of course we all know that it is never going to be one beer). We started off in a small and quiet bar (one beer). Then the captain said one for the road (he'll say this all night if it will help) and so we went to another bar called Cooneys. Here there was a live band playing (Irish folk/rock music). It was nice for a while, but we seemed to stay forever with Gav pretending to drink and the captain going full pace. We eventually got back to the ship at midnight. Rather cigarette smelly and really tired.

6 February 2000
Well we are now well on our way. The weather is terrible. We are rolling all over the show. I am only hoping that this will be the only foul weather that we have on the voyage.

10 February 2000
We have now turned north and are truly on our way to Cape Town. We went past the south western parts of Australia yesterday and the next time we see land will be in two weeks time as I strain my eyes in an attempt to see home.

14 February 2000
No news really. Only ten more days until we get to Cape Town. The weather has been okay so far, so I am not complaining. We had a braai on Saturday for lunch and supper. The sea was clear blue and the sun was shinning hot. As you can see I have nothing interesting to write about. When I reminded Gav that it was Valentines he was not too perturbed. I then asked if I could be his Valentine. Guess what he said. You have no choice, you have to because we are married. So of course I said that being married doesn't mean we have to be each others valentines. But of course just this one time I'll give in to his theory - hee hee.

19 February 2000
Yesterday I sewed all day (again) I made a dress. When I started I thought it was going to be great, but now that I only have the buttons to put on I think that I am going to look really matronly in the thing. While I am typing this (on our laptop) Gavin is sitting at his desk trying to fix my hair dryer. The little fan at the back (sucks in the air) has broken - one of the fins has snapped off. It won't blow if it is not balanced properly and so he is trying to glue the fin back on - for the second time. I am hoping that it lasts to Redcar. I think I'll have to invest in a new one when I get home.

24 February 2000
We arrived in Cape Town at 21h00 and were only there until midnight. The highlight of the entire time that we were there was watching the new crew getting on and off the ship. They all had to climb up the pilot ladder. Not as easy as it sounds as there was a big swell and so the boat they were on was rising toward and away from the ship all the time, making timing for grabbing the ladder crucial. The cooks wife has joined the ship - I was wondering how she was going to cope coming up the ladder. She seemed to managed just fine.

Well Cape Town has been and gone and now only 20 days till I come home. It was great to hear all the news from home. I wish that we could have spoken for longer though.

26 February 2000
Today we had another fire drill. We have a new captain on board so of course the routine changes to what he wants. The drill today was abandon the ship. When the alarm went off I went to the bridge as usual. The captain made the cooks wife and me put on our life jackets, and he went to great pains to make sure that we had tied them properly (in case we ever have to jump off the ship. If they are not tight enough they come over your head and off as you hit the water). The cooks wife had never even had a life jacket on, so had to be showed how to tie it on. I am sure she was really nervous - like I was the first time I had fire drill. After this we were sent to the life boat I had my first taste of getting into the lifeboat. This boat is a free fall boat at the back of the ship and it hangs vertically. We all have a specific seat that we have to sit in. Mine in no. 5 and Gav is no. 6. The seats are like those in a space rocket, i.e. you lie on your back (in a sitting position), facing the sky. When the boat falls it is a vertical drop - backwards - into the water. Of course this means you get strapped in like a racing car driver. Fortunately we only sat in the thing, I hope I don't have to actually practice falling in the water in the boat. I think the captain is planning on doing this while we are taking bunkers (at anchor) in Las Palmas. We are going to be getting bunkers as we pass Las Palmas on our way to Redcar.

28 February 2000
Another weekend gone and only two more to go until we get to Redcar. Last night we had another bar supper (i.e. eat on our laps in the officer's lounge rather than the usual sit down and be served meal). The new captain is not very friendly and only stayed to eat. All the same we had our usual round of darts. I was really playing well, I even surprised myself by beating the electrician at killer - wow.

Only 11 days till we arrive in Redcar. Only two weekends to go until I get to come home, I am really looking forward to coming home (as is Gavin). The ship is going to be going to Tuburao, Brazil after Redcar. So I will come home from the UK. It is only 14 days sailing from Redcar to Tuburao so it's not too long for Gav before he also comes home. After Brazil the ship is going to Al Jubail, Saudi Arabia so will be coming past Cape Town again around 25 April. Gav is going to ask if he can stay on the ship until then (and possibly me too, depending on the answer), as it is only 10 days more after Brazil. Anyway we will see what happens. From previous experience this is not too hopeful. As usual we are still trying to get Christmas in Gav's leave time. So hold thumbs for us.

2 March 2000
We went over the equator on 1 March and only have two days to go till we get to Las Palmas (Canary Islands) to get bunkers. I think I said before that we are getting bunkers at anchor so I won't be able to go ashore. There wouldn't be time anyway as we will only be there for about an hour. This is the second time I am going to be seeing Las Palmas from anchor. Last time was on the Cape Infanta (my very first trip). I have had two swims in the last couple of days. Well not really swims. Gav has connected the fire hose and turned on the water. He then holds the hose in the air and I have a good splash underneath the spray of the sea water. It is really very pleasant to splash around when it is so hot.

5 March 2000
It is nearly a week since I last wrote. But absolutely nothing has happened in that time. The weather has been fantastic. The sea flat and no wind. We have crossed the equator now and have only two days until we get to Las Palmas. Yesterday evening we had a braai. It is always nice to have a change from the general routine. All the crew were in hibernation until the captain had left (he is very unfriendly and antisocial). Gav says this is their way of telling him that they don't like him. Oh well I suppose there are always going to be some people who make life difficult and are generally unhappy people.

7 March 2000
We arrived in Las Palmas today. Of course we are only at anchor so cannot go ashore - ahh. I have seen on the TV that it is a public holiday today and there is a carnival in the streets. What a pity we won't be able to see it first hand. This evening Gav called me to ask if I wanted to see a Safmarine "big white". The SA Helderberg came in fully loaded with containers. The captain of the Helderberg said that they had come from Tenerife and were going to be here for 10 hours. It is strange to think that the ship is no longer part of "Gav's fleet." Anyway we will be leaving here soon. To finish our journey to Redcar. We will arrive there on 13 March, but apparently will be at anchor until the 22 March at the earliest. To get the cargo in Brazil we were meant to be there by 5 April. But if we will only be leaving Redcar at the earliest 27 March there is no way we will make it (14 days across the Atlantic). So now we don't know where the ship will be going to. We will just have to wait and see.

13 March 2000
We have arrived in Redcar, but it looks as if we will be at anchor for at least until 22 March. So I am sure we will be thoroughly sick of BBC by then. We still haven't heard what is happening to the ship after we off load the coal that we have brought here. I think that the last voyage is definatly the best for good weather - hardly any bad in the last 40 days.

16 March 2000
Today we dropped the freefall lifeboat into the water. I took some pictures and am hoping that they come out nicely. The only problem was that it is really difficult to get the boat up again. The winches broke so the crane had to lift the boat up and just leave it on the deck until the Electrician had fixed the life boat winches.

25 March 2000
Today we went alongside and the off loading began. Town is really far so I won't really get to go ashore everyday. One of the Greek superintendents came to the ship. No one is really happy about it as he walks around like he owns the place and really is getting on Gavin's nerves.

27 March 2000
I have been ashore now. I would like to buy a whole lot of things, but as usual everything is just too expensive. Today the padre from the seaman's mission took us on a tour of the surrounds of Redcar. First we drove into the moors. We stopped at a country pub and had some coffee. We then climbed back into the bus (me, cook's wife, and two of the crew) and went to a place called Whitby. This is where captain Cook comes from, and where the Endeavor ship that he sailed when he discovered Australia, was built. We walked around here, had lunch and then went back to the ship. It was rather enjoyable. I have never had the mission organise a trip for us before.

On the 30th I am going home and will spend one night in a B+B and then fly home. Just wish Gav was coming home with me.